Introducing the 5 Series Denim.
Photos: Julian Berman
Over the past few years, Japanese selvedge denim has become increasingly difficult to produce. Perhaps you’ve noticed that many brands have been slow to release new indigo denim or restock their flagship models. Surging global demand colliding with an aging workforce and a shrinking pool of artisans equipped to operate a finite number of vintage looms has created a logjam the industry has not experienced in decades. At 3sixteen, we first noticed this shift several years ago when production timelines that traditionally took 6-8 months suddenly tripled. That timeline has somehow continued to grow.
Kuroki Mills has been the foundation of our core denim program since we began working with them in 2010. They are responsible for fabrics like our flagship 100x raw indigo; in many ways, Kuroki has become a defining feature of a 3sixteen jean. However, we have also spent years working with other mills across Japan - from large heritage operations to small, family-run facilities - on special projects like our Wythe collaboration, the 20th Anniversary Burkina Faso, and the 20th Anniversary Natural Indigo. Recognizing shifting market demands and ongoing production delays, we set out in 2024 to develop new fabrics that could supplement our existing core range from Kuroki. The result is the 5 Series: a new lineup of denims that we are proud to debut this fall.
When we first developed our custom denim with Kuroki nearly two decades ago, wearability was at the forefront of our minds. We opted for open-end weft yarns to give the interior of the fabric a soft hand that almost felt brushed, ensuring our jeans would be comfortable and easy to break in from day one while still producing beautiful fades with color variance and depth over time. That wearability endeared our flagship denim to countless first time raw denim consumers. Over the years, however, we have consistently fielded requests for a heavier, crunchier fabric with a more rigid break-in. The 5 Series was developed to finally answer that call.
The 5 Series collection begins with the 105x, a deep, inky indigo woven by the renowned Nihon Menpu Mills. Weighing in at just a touch over 15.25oz, this sanforized denim features a 3x1 weave with a beautiful visible cross-hatching. While 100x exhibits a grey cast as it’s worn in, you can expect more electric blues from 105x earlier on in the break in process. It has a slightly more rigid hand than 100x and is designed to produce stunning, high-contrast fades with heavy wear.
Alongside the 105x, we are introducing a new double black selvedge denim: the 225x. Where our classic 220x double black is known for its tight, uniform weave and smooth hand, the 225x offers a highly textured, vintage-inspired appearance. Both the 105x and 225x are finished with a faded rose pink selvedge ID.
The third fabric in the series is the 105xk, an 18oz unsanforized denim custom-woven for us by Yoshiwa Mills in Ibara City. We'll be sharing more information on this very special fabric when it launches in a few weeks' time.
The 105x and 225x denim will release this Thursday, September 10th, at noon ET in our Relaxed Straight (RS) and Classic Straight (CS) fits. This initial run will be available exclusively through 3sixteen. We hope the years spent developing these fabrics are evident the moment you handle them. Our goal was to create a lineup that will eventually become as trusted as our existing 100x, 220x, and 100xk denims. We believe we have a future classic on our hands; we hope you agree.
Note: if you're interested in learning more about the circumstances surrounding the current denim production slowdown in Japan and our pathway towards developing the 5 Series denim, you can check out our most recent Singularities podcast, "The State of the Denim Address." It's available now on Spotify, Apple, and Youtube.
